Looking at our options, Kev @kev07713 and I quickly agreed that the best plan was to head east towards the Norfolk coast and spend the day at RSPB Snettisham. The reserve had been attracting a fair bit of attention recently thanks to several interesting waders being reported, including pectoral sandpiper, white-rumped sandpiper, and curlew sandpiper. Of the three, the white-rumped was always going to be more of a gamble as sightings had tailed off for a day or two, which usually means it had either moved further along the coast or was feeding out of sight somewhere on the vast mudflats. Still, birding is often about the chase as much as the reward, and we knew that Snettisham always delivers plenty to see, whether or not the rarities put in an appearance.
RSPB Snettisham is a truly spectacular reserve sitting on the edge of The Wash, one of the UK’s most important estuaries for wintering and passage birds. Twice a day, when the tide pushes thousands of waders off the mudflats and into the lagoons, the place comes alive in a way that few reserves can match. Knot, dunlin, oystercatcher, and bar-tailed godwits gather in vast numbers, swirling in dense flocks that seem to shape-shift in unison. It’s a spectacle that has rightly earned the site its reputation as one of the country’s birding highlights, particularly during the famed autumn “whirling wader” events. Unfortunately, the tide would be under 6 meters and too low to have a really spectacular display.
Even without the rarities, the promise of seeing that sheer abundance was enough to make the trip worthwhile. Add to that the possibility of catching up with a scarce American sandpiper or two, and it felt like an opportunity too good to miss. Whether we connected with the target birds or not, we were certain of a memorable day on the marshes.
We pulled into the car park and gathered our gear, ready for the familiar but deceptively long walk out to the reserve. No matter how many times you do it, the stretch always seems further than you remember, though that extra distance often brings its own surprises. Part of me was quietly hoping we might chance upon a turtle dove along the way, as they have been known to linger in this area during summer, their soft purring call such a rare sound now in Britain. Sadly, it wasn’t to be on this occasion.
What we did get, however, was something altogether unexpected. Out of the corner of my eye, I caught the elegant white shape of a spoonbill gliding across the sky, following the river course, its long neck outstretched and unmistakable bill catching the light. Before we’d even finished remarking on the sighting, a second bird appeared, this time passing almost directly overhead, close enough for us to admire the details of its slow, deliberate wingbeats. An uplifting start to the day.
As we pressed on, the hedgerows and scrub lining the path were busy with smaller birds. Whitethroats flitted about, pausing briefly on the tops of brambles to deliver their scratchy song, while sedge warblers rattled away unseen in the reedier patches. Here and there, other “little brown jobs” (LBJs) darted from bush to bush, just quick glimpses of movement that keep you scanning and listening in case something more unusual pops up. It was a reminder that at Snettisham, even the approach to the lagoons can be rich with life if you take the time to look and listen.
As we reached the climb up from the edge of the river, our attention was drawn to a pair of terns quartering the river. They moved with that characteristic buoyancy, wings beating steadily as they hovered and then dived sharply into the surface in pursuit of fish. For a moment, I let myself hope that one of them might turn out to be something a little different - perhaps an Arctic tern to add to my year list.
In the end, the clean lines and bright red bills revealed them to be common terns. No disappointment, though - they remain a delight to watch and it’s hard not to admire their precision as they work the shallows. There’s something about terns that always lifts the mood: the way they seem perfectly at home skimming the water’s surface. Even if they weren’t the rarity I’d hoped for, they added another welcome note to the day list.
Looking out towards the sea, our eyes were drawn to a large flock of waders rising and twisting against the grey sky. The whole mass moved as one, a cloud that shifted shape in an instant. At this distance, it was impossible to pick out individual species, but experience told us what we were watching: a swirling mix that would almost certainly include red knot, black-tailed godwits, and dunlin.
These aerial ballets are always spellbinding, and part of the magic lies in knowing that each bird is responding instinctively to the movement of those around it, tiny adjustments creating one vast synchronised display. We paused briefly, even though we knew we’d enjoy closer views once we made it to the sea wall. There, with luck, we’d be able to watch the flocks settle onto the mudflats or be pushed inland by the rising tide, turning distant silhouettes into a varied collection of waders.
Just before we reached the turn leading onto the sea wall, another species caught our attention. A group of Egyptian geese were gathered along the bank that bordered the water, their striking chestnut eye patches and bold plumage standing out against the grey sky reflections of the water. A few more drifted lazily across the surface, paddling in unhurried circles as though entirely at ease.
Though not native, these birds have become a familiar sight in parts of Norfolk and further afield, their numbers steadily increasing over recent years. There’s something slightly exotic about them, with their upright posture and loud, honking calls, a reminder of their origins along the Nile. While they don’t stir the excitement of a rarity, they add a hint of the exotic.
We paused for a moment to chat with a birder stationed off to our right - he confirmed that he’d managed to pick out the pectoral sandpiper earlier from the Rotary Hide. That was encouraging news, exactly what we wanted to hear. A pec would be a new bird for the year, and while it can be a slippery customer, just knowing it had been seen nearby gave us hope.
From the hide, we trained our scopes across the pool, scanning intently for anything out of the ordinary. At first, though, every promising shape resolved itself into yet another dunlin. One, then another, then another - plenty to sift through but none bearing the crisp breast band of our target bird. The couple sharing the hide with us reassured us that we weren’t chasing shadows; they too had seen the pec earlier, first on a distant spit and later working the edge of a nearby island. Encouraged, we continued scanning the flocks with patience and hope.
Meanwhile, movement behind us kept drawing my eyes away from the islands. A large gathering of waders congregated in a large body, made up of black-tailed godwits and red knot, two of the signature species of The Wash, and together they created an extraordinary spectacle. Likely thousands of birds compressed into a tight group - a classic defensive behaviour of waders: safety in numbers, each bird shielded by the mass, confusing potential predators.
A little while later, a couple more birders drifted into the hide to join the search. One of them turned out to be a familiar face - Des, a regular presence along the east coast and someone we’ve bumped into on more than one occasion - at Frampton, Hunstanton amongst others. There’s always a certain camaraderie when birders gather like this: seeing familiar faces.
We continued to work our way steadily through the waders, scoping every dunlin, double-checking every redshank, lingering over anything that seemed slightly out of place. Then, after a spell of silence, Des spoke up. He thought he had it - the pectoral sandpiper - picked out at long range. Even with a scope, the view was distant, but it was enough to be confident.
The bird itself, when you finally lock onto one, is subtle yet distinctive. About the size of a dunlin but a touch longer and slimmer, with neatly scalloped upperparts and, most importantly, a sharp, dark pectoral band across the chest that gives the species its name. This band cuts cleanly into the white belly below, creating a contrast that makes the bird look crisply marked compared with its neighbours.
Pectoral sandpipers breed in the Arctic tundra of North America and Siberia, but every autumn a scattering of them crosses the Atlantic to turn up on our shores, a long-distance migrant blown off course - spotting one is always a thrill.
Even though the view was far from perfect, the knowledge that we had connected with this scarce visitor was satisfying. We watched hoping for a closer look, but content at least that our patience had paid off.
A little nearer to the hide, we picked out a small group of spotted redshanks gathered quietly in the water. Most of them were dozing, bills tucked neatly into their feathers, their reflections rippling faintly on the surface. A few birds stirred now and then to preen, stretching their wings or carefully working their bills through their plumage in slow, deliberate movements.
By this stage in the year, they had mostly slipped back into their winter plumage, the dramatic black-and-white finery of summer giving way to the more subdued, silvery-grey tones that make them easy to confuse at a glance with common redshanks. Still, their slimmer build, longer legs, and the elegant sweep of their needle-fine bills gave them a certain poise, and the occasional flash of white underwing when one shifted position was enough to mark them out. While a handful winter in the UK, most are just passing through on migration.
Before long we left the hide behind and wandered over to one of the benches that offered a broad view across the mudflats, accompanied by Des. From here we could watch the incoming tide slowly swallowing the sandbanks, pushing the waders ever closer. It’s one of the joys of Snettisham - the way the landscape transforms hour by hour, and with it the behaviour of the birds.
Scanning the distant waders, I picked out my first grey plovers of the year. They were far too distant for a photograph, but their bold markings stood out clearly through the scope. Still holding onto their summer plumage, they looked magnificent - black faces and bellies framed by striking white borders, contrasting sharply with the silver-grey of their backs.
Looking back over the hide we saw a raptor being mobbed by terns - it turned out to be a kestrel, although initially we thought it might have been a hobby. We saw at least seven more across on the left side of the estuary.
The tide continued its steady advance, though it soon became clear that the water would never quite reach us where we were stationed. Instead, it would linger frustratingly far out, leaving the birds just beyond the range for any close views. Even so, the shifting waterline had its effect.
As the mudflats gradually disappeared, the waders were forced to move, edging along the shore and every so often the entire flock would lift, bursting into the air as one, wheeling and twisting against the light before settling again.
Even at a distance, the sight of so many birds responding instinctively to the rhythm of the tide was spectacular. The lack of close views didn’t diminish the sense of drama.
We began working our way back along the track, eyes scanning the mudflats and shallow pools for any sign of a curlew sandpiper or a little stint, both of which had been reported in the area recently. At the first of the buildings along the wall, we paused, spotting a few sandwich terns with the more familiar common terns. Among the various gulls resting along the water’s edge were a few Mediterranean gulls mingling with black-headed, herring, great black-backed, and lesser black-backed gulls - plenty to keep the eyes busy.
Then, out in front of us, I caught a flash of movement: a curlew sandpiper, unmistakable with its compact frame and striking, slightly downcurved bill. Before I could get more than a brief look, it slipped quietly into a gully, disappearing from view but not before I got Des and Kev on it. A little later, our persistence was rewarded again when another birder spotted one further out along the shallows, taking advantage of the tide here having advanced a little further. It moved deliberately, probing the wet sand and shallow water with its bill, giving just enough of a view to admire the pale underparts, warmer reddish tones on the back, and the elegant, slightly hunched posture that distinguishes this small wader. Soon enough it vanished again.
From behind us came the soft, familiar purring call of a turtle dove. After a few moments of careful scanning, we finally picked it out perched atop a tall tree. It was distant, but seeing one so clearly was a reminder that these gentle birds are still managing to hold their own here, despite the challenges they face nationally.
Des said he was off home, and it was time for us to do the same. No sign of the white-rumped sandpiper but we had enjoyed a great day and noted at least 66 species.
Year list: 227.
