Last year, Kev @kev07713 and I took advantage of the quieter summer period to go butterfly watching, with a particular focus on purple emperors. Although we enjoyed some success, we never managed to connect with any white admirals. Over the weekend just gone, we therefore dedicated some time to visiting Bernwood Forest in the hope of catching up with the white admirals and perhaps seeing the first emerging purple emperors. While we were very successful in finding the white admirals, the purple emperors eluded us. Fortunately, it wasn't more than a week before we would catch up with them too, especially the males.
Birding had taken something of a back seat, but when we discussed plans for the middle of the week, I persuaded Kev to visit Hickling Broad, where a Caspian tern had been reported for several days. The trip might also give us the opportunity to visit Strumpshaw Fen RSPB, where we understood swallowtail butterflies could be found - another species high on our list of wildlife we'd been hoping to see.
We arrived at Hickling Broad to find the car park completely full, which came as quite a surprise and was very different from our previous visit to see the black-winged kite. Not only were there virtually no parking spaces available, even in the overflow car park, but a coach party was also checking in at the Visitor Centre. We were feeling optimistic, having received an update on the way confirming that the bird was still present.
After getting our gear together, we headed out onto the reserve. Before long, we met a couple who had just returned from one of the perimeter paths bordering the area where the Caspian tern had been reported. They advised us to continue along the path ahead and make for the elevated viewing platform, which they said likely offered the best chance of seeing the bird.
We walked with them and, after about five minutes, reached the platform where three birders were already in position. Two of them immediately stepped down and informed us that the tern had been showing well but had only just taken off and flown away from the viewpoint - they were content with their views and were leaving. Apparently, it had behaved in a similar fashion earlier and was expected to return—hopefully before too long.
We joined with the couple on the platform and with me on the stairs waiting for the return and thankfully it didn't take long before we saw the Caspian tern return into the shallow water and preen.
The Caspian tern is the world's largest tern and is a scarce but regular visitor to the UK. Although it breeds across parts of Europe, Asia, North America, Africa and Australia, it does not breed here so most UK records involve wandering birds during late spring and summer, with occasional individuals lingering for several days at favoured wetlands or estuaries. Some years produce only a handful of records, while in others several individuals appear around the country. Birds are most often seen between May and August, with July being a particularly good month as post-breeding dispersal begins.
As usual, I concentrated on taking photographs while Kev recorded some video on his phone through his scope. His post on X gives a good idea of just how distant the bird was, even with the reach provided by the scope and a degree of cropping applied to the video. He really is quite good at this.
Today @jkyles32 and I visited NWT Hickling Broad, Norfolk. Our target was the Caspian tern, It had been present for a few days, we had a fairly early start and with positive news luck would be on our side.@BirdGuides pic.twitter.com/WC3xL7XDu9
— Kev heath (@kev07713) June 18, 2026
While we waited, we added a steady stream of other species to the day's list, including common redshank (rather than the spotted redshanks reported the previous day), shelduck, ringed plover, buzzard, marsh harrier, sparrowhawk, Cetti's warbler, common tern, and more. Kev then picked out a little gull to the right of where the Caspian tern had been standing, providing another addition.
The tern made a few short flights around the pool before eventually gaining height and disappearing into the distance once more. Taking this as our cue, we relinquished our spot on the viewing platform and struck up a conversation with a couple of birders who had joined us. One of them mentioned that, in recent years, Caspian terns had become almost an annual feature somewhere in the Norfolk Broads, with Hickling Broad proving to be one of their favoured haunts. As a result, he now regarded the species as one he expected to see every year rather than just occasionally.
They also told us that swallowtail butterflies could be found on the reserve and that one of the more reliable places to look was along a nearby track leading back towards the Visitor Centre. We walked with them, as one of the birders wanted to catch up with reed warblers, and before long reached the spot they had described. There we found two women and another chap independently scanning the hedgerows in the hope of finding our target.
The two women were on holiday in the area and had already seen the butterflies earlier in the week but had returned in the hope of enjoying more prolonged views. Unfortunately, none were showing at the time. While I chatted with them, Kev wandered over to speak with the other chap, who had just discovered a drinker moth caterpillar and was soon showing it to the rest of us.
The caterpillar of the drinker moth is one of Britain's most distinctive large, hairy caterpillars. Fully grown, it can reach around 75 mm in length, making it one of the largest moth caterpillars likely to be encountered in the UK. Its body is densely covered in long, shaggy brown and orange hairs, giving it a distinctly furry appearance. Running along its back is a pair of narrow creamy-white lines, usually separated by a darker central stripe, while each flank is decorated with a series of bold black-and-white chevrons, creating a strikingly patterned insect that is difficult to overlook.
Across the reedbed we could see a small group of people gathered beside a line of bushes and, according to the two women, this was another spot where swallowtail butterflies had been showing regularly the previous day. We eventually decided to make our way over and, as we walked, the occasional flurry of raised cameras gave us hope that we were heading in the right direction.
As we reached the group, a swallowtail butterfly drifted effortlessly into view before settling on a nearby bush, affording us superb views. It was a butterfly lifer for both of us and a species we'd talked about making a special trip to see for several years. The next couple of hours passed all too quickly as we watched, photographed and admired these magnificent insects, chatting with the other enthusiasts between sightings. What a beautiful butterfly it is, and one that more than lived up to our expectations.
The swallowtail is Britain's largest butterfly, with a wingspan of up to 90mm, and is also one of its most breathtaking. With creamy-yellow wings boldly patterned in black, accented by electric-blue crescents and a vivid red eye spot on each hindwing, it is impossible to mistake. It is endemic to the Norfolk Broads, and this subspecies is restricted to the fens where its caterpillars feed exclusively on milk parsley.
Eventually, we made our way back to the Visitor Centre for a well-earned lunch before returning to the car for the journey home, satisfied that we had connected with both of our target species and enjoyed another memorable day.
There is a small, managed colony of Glanville fritillaries in Wiltshire. Although introduced and therefore outside the butterfly's natural range, the colony has persisted for several years thanks to careful habitat management. Naturally, the Glanville fritillary is confined to the Isle of Wight, where it breeds on coastal grasslands, making the Wiltshire colony a much more accessible opportunity to see this rare species.
Armed with some good information, we set off on the Saturday in the hope of tracking one down and after parking, we climbed the slope towards what we believed was the most promising area. The directions we'd been given initially proved a little confusing, however, and the terrain didn't seem to match our expectations but nevertheless, we pressed on and soon began encountering plenty of more common butterfly species.
Although butterflies were our main objective, it is never easy to ignore our usual quarry. Ahead of us, a kestrel hovered effortlessly, silhouetted against the sky above a sunlit slope that appeared to be alive with butterflies. To our right, a pair of stonechats voiced their disapproval at our presence, repeatedly perching on the tops of bushes and delivering their sharp, chattering calls as we passed and started working through the butterflies.
After a short while a likely candidate dropped into the grass and meadow flowers in front of us and on close inspection we believed we were on our target butterfly. It is one of Britain's most attractive and sought-after butterflies and although widespread across much of continental Europe, in Britain it is known for its natural population on the Isle of Wight.
It is a medium-sized butterfly whose orange-brown upper wings are patterned with a bold network of black markings, creating an intricate chequered effect. A row of pale cream spots around the wing margins provides an attractive contrast and completes its distinctive appearance.
The underside is, if anything, even more impressive. The hindwings have alternating bands of orange, cream and white, forming an intricate pattern reminiscent of stained glass. These markings are best appreciated when the butterfly settles to nectar, closing its wings to reveal the full beauty of their delicate design.
We enjoyed several more sightings, perhaps all involving the same individual, as we continued to explore the area. At one point I wandered over the hill behind us to see what else might be about. Although there were plenty of butterflies, they were all species we had already encountered. To make matters worse, while I was away Kev managed to add a grizzled skipper to his day list - typical! I had to content myself with a selection of the more common species instead.
Another thoroughly enjoyable day out, and a wonderful way to spend the quieter weeks of summer when birding naturally takes a back seat. Swapping feathers for butterflies had proved every bit as rewarding, with another couple of long-awaited species added to our list.
Year list: 266.
